Mal lghaba m9al9a?

Temps de lecture: 11 minutes
Foret

“God’s paradise on earth, alhamdolillahˮ, my grandma (may she rest in peace) would refer to the forest she grew up next to in Sebt Maghchouch, a small village in the region of Zaer. My dad explained that during the 50s and late 60s, everything flourished inside and outside the forests around their house. He vividly remembers how close the villagers were with one another and with the woods.

One summer day, as we were both sipping on our hot tea cups, we had been talking for hours about life and what it had become. Without any of us noticing, the conversation drifted to how my grandma (his mum) was always talking about their house back home and about how much nicer and more relaxing it was for the eye. “Baba, I remember Jeddah (May she rest in peace) would talk about how wolves and wild boars were around the forest, that can’t be true, right? It doesn’t sound real.” He put his cup of tea down, and pensive, he smiled, as if all the memories were coming back to him. “Allah y r7amha! She wasn’t wrong, you know. Granted I have never seen a wolf back in my days, but your jeddatek would always tell me about the different creatures they would encounter in the forest.”

Dad reminisces about the old times, mentioning that some family members would bring around one hundred sheep and cows to feed from the forests near the “Sopap Valleyˮ (صباب) and let them roam freely all day. Sopap is a beautiful canyon in the Zaer region, around Sebt Maghchouch, with breathtaking scenery and a beautiful river that winds through the green landscape. “The livestock would cover the whole land; it was beautiful to see. Subhana Allah, everything was green, and the animals roamed freely on the landˮ, says my dad.

The land provided excellent pasture because it was green due to the frequent rainfall and abundant resources to feed the livestock. The sheep, cows and goats were always healthy, fed from healthy soils with great nutrients directly given by Mother Nature.

“We wouldn’t leave the forest as kidsˮ, my dad recounts with a nostalgic smile. “We’d take our cows and goats, letting them feed while we talked and watched over them. We ate humaida (bitter orange) straight from the trees and guernina (Spanish thistle) in spring. We walked through the land, harvesting plants and fruits, spending entire days in the forest from sunrise to sunset, relishing every moment. Nothing bothered us; we cherished the land we held dear. On our way back, we’d gather wood and dead roots for warmth and our nightly tea ritual. The forest was the primary space of our lives, like a second home, always welcoming us. We found everything we needed there. Our parents’ attachment to the land became ours too, until we had to move to the city.ˮ

The Zaer region is known for its fabulous oak forests and majestic arar forests. This region has a strong history that ties the land to its people. Indeed, Zaer has historically been a favored destination for Moroccan kings and princes for hunting and leisure activities. Its natural beauty and imposing landscape made it an ideal spot for such pursuits. The region’s forests were home to various wild animals and birds, making it suitable for hunting. Species like gazelles, rabbits, partridges, foxes, jackals, and wild boars were abundant. You heard that correctly, foxes and gazelles roamed the forests in Zaer.

 

Ila jat dbaba, hreb b wladek l ghabaˮ

If there’s a fog, run with your kids to the forest. This old adage illustrates the important place that the forest holds in our culture and lives. The forest has always been one of Morocco’s most valuable assets, so much so that many sayings involve it.

The basic needs of the nearby villagers have always relied on forests as their primary resource. Whether for nutrition, habitation, or leisure, the intricate ecosystem of the forests has always been central to the life of this community. Villagers consider the forest a sanctuary; it has everything they need and more. During cold winter nights, they bring wood to keep themselves warm. When it gets hot, they go to their cabins in the woods or seek refuge under the immense trees that offer shade as a welcoming gift. The forest is generous; when conditions are right, it provides plenty of plants for daily life. Medicinal, aromatic, or just pretty plants and flowers for decoration. When water was abundant, medicinal plants were harvested throughout the year from the forest to be used in various authentic homemade remedies. Feeling sick? No worries, the forest helps with her zaatar and meriwt (horehound). Pregnant? They used meriwt and different concoctions of teas and plants like fliou (pennyroyal) and khzama (lavender) to ease childbirth. These same plants are now the base for many modern medications. There is a strong relationship between humans and the forest that goes back decades (if not millennia), especially in the Zaer region.

“We learned every path, moving carefully through the forest, discovering something new each day. Grandpa and I would follow squirrels, learning her secrets. My grandma would sit in the forest, making tea while we played around her. After moving to the city, we always returned to the forest. We couldn’t give up on her. In the city, everything was different, but we’d go back, sit under the trees, sipping tea, and enjoying msemen with honey and butter from our cows. Every visit was a cherished escape from city stress.ˮ

Za’ria l’3ogbia is what we call it when we return home to the land. We sat in the forest, enjoying every moment before going back to the city’s hustle.ˮ

“Itʼs not the same as it once wasˮ, claims my dad with a sigh of despair. Around the 70s, you could still see some of the beautiful remnants. He recalls the green grass where they would sit and drink hot tea made from plants harvested from the nearby woods. While sipping tea and discussing everything and nothing, birds would visit, chirping sweet melodies in time.

 

Werini we7chek ya lghaba!

Morocco is undeniably a rich country with diverse cultures that find a way to harmonize, no matter the time and place. Forests have been a prominent part of this rich intangible cultural heritage. Many singers, poets, and artists have drawn inspiration from the forest and its ecosystem.

“Werini we7chek ya lghaba!” Whether to thank, praise, or raise awareness, the land always found a way to  be the centerpiece of art in Morocco.

Werini we7chek ya lghabaˮ, which we could translate roughly by “show me your monster, forestˮ, is a great example of this intrinsic connection. This old melody is about a monster lurking around. The singer is inviting the woods to reveal itself, its monsters, and all. “Show me your monsterˮ refers to the wolves that used to live peacefully within the depths of the forest. Reveal yourself to me! Show me what lies behind the immense and mysterious oak trees, what lies within your darkest nights. While singing this melody, you can hear people bark as the singer invites the forest to show its monster. This practice is called “hayt za’riˮ, where people sing and enter a trance with the melodies.

“My mum and dad (Allah y r7amhom) told us stories about the forest and its creatures, from wolves and foxes to the terrifying “mi lghoula” who roamed at night. These tales kept us from venturing too deep into the forest at night. My grandpa and dad taught us about every plant and tree, their names, uses, and how to respect the forest. Their knowledge passed down to us remains vivid.ˮ

The forests have been exploited for many reasons, and this didnʼt start recently. When Morocco was colonized, French colons came to Zaer, hunting and using up all the resources the communities needed. Featured in L’Echo du Maroc around March 1943, we can see French colonists celebrating their latest hunt: a panther that weighed 100 kgs in “Centre la Jacqueline,ˮ the French name given back then to Zhiligha, a village within the Romanni prefecture. Back then, Zaër culture faced significant challenges due to many French policies aimed at modernization and agricultural development, which disrupted traditional grazing lands with infrastructure projects and land sales to European settlers. This upheaval shattered the traditional way of life for the community in Zaër, leading to the erosion of their lands, identity, and community cohesion.

Gustave Wolfrom, author of Le Maroc, ce qu’il faut en connaître, demonstrates how abundant Lawsonia inermis, also known as the henna tree, is in the region of Zaer and Mazagan, both regions known for their beautiful forests.

 

Another song that might be a little too relevant given todayʼs context is “mal ghaba m9al9a?ˮ Why are the woods angry/dissatisfied? Given the consequences the woods are dealing with due to climate change and deforestation.

The forests of Zaer have played an important role in the country’s cultural and historical landscape, serving as a backdrop for communal leisure activities and survival. The forests in Sebt Maghchouch, for instance, have experienced deforestation and drought in recent decades as people pick the woods for personal use without care or remorse. This excessive exploitation of resources, without replacement (replanting, rehabilitation of the forests, etc.), will --and sadly have-- eventually lead to the deterioration of this sanctuary for many villagers, farmers, and communities nearby. We canʼt deny that the increased urbanization of rural areas surrounding the forests has had a huge impact, leading to the destruction of trees to build homes. The lack of forests impacts the quality of life for local communities, people around the kingdom, and even around the world, as forests are essential for air purification and food quality.

The forests of Morocco face extensive exploitation, leading to environmental degradation and a threatened biodiversity. Illegal logging, overgrazing by livestock, urbanization, and wildfires are just some of the major issues affecting these forests. These activities cause deforestation, soil erosion, and disruption of the water cycle, impacting both the wildlife and the local communities that rely on the forest and its resources. Many communities rely on forests for their livelihoods, whether it’s through foraging, hunting, or using forest resources for daily needs. The degradation of forests means a loss of these vital resources, forcing communities to find alternative, often less sustainable, means of survival. This can lead to increased poverty and reduced quality of life.

Forests cover over 90,000 square kilometers in Morocco, accounting for nearly 13% of the country’s land area. This number keeps dropping yearly. From 2001 to 2016, Morocco experienced a tree cover loss of around 31,724 hectares, while tree cover gain during the same period was merely 19,541 hectares.

Wildfires present a more immediate and devastating threat. Often caused by human activities, these fires can quickly decimate large areas of forest. The aftermath of wildfires is equally devastating, leaving the land barren and prone to erosion. The loss of vegetation also means the loss of species that depend on the forest for their survival. Illegal logging is also a widespread practice by the local communities, but also by people from the neighboring areas in need of logs and wood. This custom leads to stripping the forests of precious trees that take decades to regenerate. This loss of tree cover not only reduces the habitat available for countless species but also disrupts the delicate balance of the ecosystem. The soil becomes compacted and loses its ability to retain water, disrupting the natural water cycle and leading to increased runoff and reduced groundwater recharge.

Urbanization is another significant threat. As cities expand and infrastructure projects increase, large swathes of forest land are cleared to make way for development. This urban invasion not only destroys habitats but also divides the remaining forest areas, making it harder for wildlife to survive and thrive.

The loss of green spaces also reduces the natural carbon sink, contributing to increased greenhouse gas emissions.

In response to these challenges, the Moroccan government has launched an ambitious tree planting program in partnership with different civil society groups, aiming to plant 800,000 trees across the country by 2024. This initiative responds to the devastating impact of climate change and human activities on Morocco’s forest ecosystems. The initiative aims to mitigate the effects of deforestation to the best of its ability, educate communities living near forests about the impacts of various factors leading to tree loss, and encourage local involvement in forest conservation.

"Our forests are our lifeline," asserts my dad passionately "We need to find viable solutions: replant what’s been lost and protect what remains. Lghaba isn’t just about trees; it’s more than that. Lghaba amana men jdodna, khassna n7afdo 3liha… it has been entrusted to us by our ancestors, we need to preserve it.ˮ